Andy Burrows
For many visitors to Northern Thailand, a trip to visit one of the region's colourful hill tribes is a necessity. These minority groups have their photos splashed across tourist brochures and websites, adding to their appeal and intrigue. Some of the villages receive tour buses and trekking groups on a regular basis as the financial benefits outweigh any concerns over privacy.
The harsh reality of the situation is that most of these hill tribes have been marginalised and live in abject poverty. Few of them are officially recognised by the Thai authorities and they exist without any ID cards or rights. For the many tourists who are happy to get a glimpse of their rural lifestyles, they are often completely unaware of the hardship and suffering they endure.
There are over half a dozen different tribes in the area, and they are all unique in their own way with different languages, dress and customs. Among the poorest of these tribes are the Akha and consequently, they receive special attention from charity workers, anthropologists and missionary groups. They are known to the Thais by the somewhat derogatory name Egor and are usually considered worthless peasants at the bottom of the social scale.
Their origins can be traced back over a century to Tibet, before they migrated to Burma, Laos and Thailand, along with other hill tribes. Over the last two decades, they have been continually persecuted by the military regime in Burma, forcing them to flee and settle in Thailand as refugees. They remain stateless despite having been here so long, and are often exploited by corrupt officials and drug barons in the area.
The Akhas use a Lolo-Burmese language, although it has never been written down, making it difficult to trace its history accurately. Any known history has been passed on by mouth over the generations. Civil rights groups have recently created a system to document their language.
There are over 300,000 Akhas living in Thailand with the majority of the villages located in the province of Chiang Rai. They are usually subsistence farmers who grow vegetables and rice on the mountainsides, and raise pigs and chickens. The men often work in surrounding rice and tobacco fields, starting early in the morning and continuing until the last light. They receive about 100 baht per day, which is considerably less than the national minimum wage.
Their villages are often in remote locations and can be difficult to reach, meaning that the Akhas seldom leave their immediate area. Running water is still not available to all of the tribes so women are sometimes charged with the task of filling up large containers from a nearby well several times a day. A few villages have been fortunate enough to be electrified resulting in a marked improvement in living conditions. Entire families live in a simple houses constructed from bamboo and grass.
Missionary groups operating in the area have also increased problems of a religious nature. Their assistance is often dependant on certain conditions as they try to convert the Akhas to Christianity. Their methods are controversial, although the missionaries would say that they can help to improve their living conditions and future opportunities.
Questionable practices such as removing children from their family homes to give them a more civilised upbringing, has led to much criticism. The religion of the Akha people is closely tied to animism, with a strong focus on honouring ancestors and their parents, and a belief in both good and bad spirits. The presence of certain Christian groups has led to an erosion of their unique and fascinating culture.
The lack of ID cards has not stopped some of the women abandoning their villages in search of work in the big cities. Many end up working in prostitution or poorly paid massage parlours. Unfortunately, the young men often suffer a worse fate as they became smugglers for powerful drug barons. During the government crackdown on drugs in 2003, over 2,000 people were killed, many of them Akha.
The future for the Akha hilltribe is hard to predict as tourism continues to thrive in the area and the Thai authorities overlook them. Their unique culture is slowly fading away as the tour groups traipse through the villages and disturb their normal lives.
http://www.articlesbase.com/travel-articles/the-akha-hill-tribe-in-chiang-rai-thailand-156416.html
Showing posts with label Trekking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trekking. Show all posts
2007/09/13
2007/09/12
White-water Rafting in Chiang Mai – Northern Thailand
We’d come donw from the hippie town of Pai. After days of heavy rains and stormy conditions, the weather finally breaks and the intense sun can be felt once again. We're travelling in a Landrover alongside the Mae Tang River, fighting through deep ruts and muddy conditions that were caused by a storm. The gorge to our left drops away dramatically and we finally get out first glimpse of the raging waters. I'm hoping my partner, who was reluctant to come on the trip, won't be deterred by the sight of the ferocious river.
Jason, our guide, thankfully reassures us that he never rafts an angry river. He stops and points to some rocks by the river's edge. “See this boulder here”, he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. The rain from the recent typhoon has inundated the valley and there is forest debris strewn all along the river banks. We weren’t sure whether to raft here or in Pai. Fortunately, he is internationally trained and qualified in water rescue so we take his word for it.
We reach our camp at the charming village of Sop Kai, where the river is slower due to the flat nature of the land. The jungle birds are singing, the water is glistening and everybody is in a more jovial mood. We are given some coffee and snacks and left to relax for a while in this peaceful, sleepy community. Few tourists make it here to enjoy the wonderful scenery. His camp was much like the laid back atmosphere in Pai a few days back.
Before we get too comfortable, we are kitted out with paddles, helmets and buoyancy aids. We are given a comprehensive safety briefing, and told that the guides will be in control of the rafts and that we must follow their orders. We practice our strokes on a quiet section of the river. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he screams as we try our best to appear competent.
Our minds are put at ease when some of the staff are dispatched to the more dangerous parts of the river, in anticipation of the raft capsizing. We also have kayakers that will stay with us to rescue anyone who falls in.
Before we knew it, the guides launch us into the main current of the river and the camp disappears from view. It’s too late to go back and we focus intently on the rapids ahead. My heart rate increases as the thunderous sound of water gets closer and closer. I let out a scream as we are thrown into the grade four rapid, anxiously trying to stay balanced as the raft accelerates. My adrenalin pumps and we are thrown around, but it’s not long until the raft emerges into a calmer section.
We continued, riding over some smaller and less-intimidating rapids until our guide said “okay, everybody ready?” A large collection of storm debris has divided the upcoming rapid and the right hand side looks extremely dangerous. “Lean left! Left, left, left!” he shouts as we desperately try to avoid being swept into the menacing waters. People start to panic until the survival instinct takes over and we haul ourselves towards the easier looking section. Miraculously, we somehow make it and our panic turns to laughter as we exit the section with relief and cheers.
After a deserved lunch break when we relax and swap stories, we proceed onto the toughest section of our journey. The next rapid is a grade five, the hardest, and it looks more like a waterfall. We approach it with trepidation, knowing that there is no way back and only one way through it. As we hurl over the top, I catch a glimpse of the safety team on the bank and I sense that we may not make this one unscathed.
The raft hits the bottom and immediately flips over, tossing everyone into the water. Panic reigns once again as I’m pushed underwater by the power of the rapids. I desperately try to remember the safety advice I was given earlier in the day. Fighting it is forlorn and I wait for what seems like an eternity until I’m washed out farther downstream and able to swim to the safety of the bank.
We are able to regroup and rescue the rafts, safe in the knowledge that we survived the mighty Mae Tang River. A celebratory photograph is all that is left of my most exciting day in Thailand.
http://www.articlesbase.com/travel-articles/whitewater-rafting-in-chiang-mai-northern-thailand-137750.html
Jason, our guide, thankfully reassures us that he never rafts an angry river. He stops and points to some rocks by the river's edge. “See this boulder here”, he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. The rain from the recent typhoon has inundated the valley and there is forest debris strewn all along the river banks. We weren’t sure whether to raft here or in Pai. Fortunately, he is internationally trained and qualified in water rescue so we take his word for it.
We reach our camp at the charming village of Sop Kai, where the river is slower due to the flat nature of the land. The jungle birds are singing, the water is glistening and everybody is in a more jovial mood. We are given some coffee and snacks and left to relax for a while in this peaceful, sleepy community. Few tourists make it here to enjoy the wonderful scenery. His camp was much like the laid back atmosphere in Pai a few days back.
Before we get too comfortable, we are kitted out with paddles, helmets and buoyancy aids. We are given a comprehensive safety briefing, and told that the guides will be in control of the rafts and that we must follow their orders. We practice our strokes on a quiet section of the river. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he screams as we try our best to appear competent.
Our minds are put at ease when some of the staff are dispatched to the more dangerous parts of the river, in anticipation of the raft capsizing. We also have kayakers that will stay with us to rescue anyone who falls in.
Before we knew it, the guides launch us into the main current of the river and the camp disappears from view. It’s too late to go back and we focus intently on the rapids ahead. My heart rate increases as the thunderous sound of water gets closer and closer. I let out a scream as we are thrown into the grade four rapid, anxiously trying to stay balanced as the raft accelerates. My adrenalin pumps and we are thrown around, but it’s not long until the raft emerges into a calmer section.
We continued, riding over some smaller and less-intimidating rapids until our guide said “okay, everybody ready?” A large collection of storm debris has divided the upcoming rapid and the right hand side looks extremely dangerous. “Lean left! Left, left, left!” he shouts as we desperately try to avoid being swept into the menacing waters. People start to panic until the survival instinct takes over and we haul ourselves towards the easier looking section. Miraculously, we somehow make it and our panic turns to laughter as we exit the section with relief and cheers.
After a deserved lunch break when we relax and swap stories, we proceed onto the toughest section of our journey. The next rapid is a grade five, the hardest, and it looks more like a waterfall. We approach it with trepidation, knowing that there is no way back and only one way through it. As we hurl over the top, I catch a glimpse of the safety team on the bank and I sense that we may not make this one unscathed.
The raft hits the bottom and immediately flips over, tossing everyone into the water. Panic reigns once again as I’m pushed underwater by the power of the rapids. I desperately try to remember the safety advice I was given earlier in the day. Fighting it is forlorn and I wait for what seems like an eternity until I’m washed out farther downstream and able to swim to the safety of the bank.
We are able to regroup and rescue the rafts, safe in the knowledge that we survived the mighty Mae Tang River. A celebratory photograph is all that is left of my most exciting day in Thailand.
http://www.articlesbase.com/travel-articles/whitewater-rafting-in-chiang-mai-northern-thailand-137750.html
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)