A 700 year story - the moated city of Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, the capital city of the Province of Chiang Mai, is steeped in history. From its foundation the city has enjoyed both successful and turbulent times. The creation of this moated city can be traced back to the Lanna (million rice fields) Kingdom.
A major tourist attraction, lying to the south east of Chiang Mai, is Wiang Khum Kham. This is where the first city of the Lanna Kingdom was built. Due to flooding however the city was not a success and so had to be abandoned.

Chiang Mai was built in 1296 as the capital of Lanna. King Mangrai and his close friends King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and King Ngam Muang of Phayao choose this fertile location in the Ping Valley, close to the Ping River. The location served the city well with the trade the river brought. More over the city sat at the bottom of Doi Suthep, a mountain which provided wood for the city.

The Lanna Kingdom enjoyed its most prosperous period in the 15th century. The kingdom was well established and had a vast area of control. From the Burmese Shan territory, to the north western parts of Laos, to the Yunnan province in China the Lanna Kingdom had total control. The official religion was Buddhism which is still the most popular religion in this region today. The Lanna Kingdom is credited with spreading Buddhism throughout this part of Asia.

Temples (wat) were built in Chiang Mai they were beautiful, grand and well decorated buildings. The first temple to be built was Wat Chiang Man. It was built during the 13th century and still stands today. Housed within Wat Chiang Man are Phra Satang Man (a crystal Buddha) and Phra Sila (a marble Buddha) both highly revered figures within Buddhism. Pictures of Chiang Mai

Built in 1345 is Wat Phra Singh. This masterpiece is arguably the most spectacular example of a vintage northern Thai style temple. Housed within it is the Phra Singh Buddha which was transferred from Chiang Rai hundreds of years ago. Chiang Mai’s most famous feature, the moat, was built around the same time as Wat Phra Singh. The purpose of the moat was primarily to keep the Burmese from invading the city.

Burma wasn’t the only enemy that faced Lanna. Many wars had been fought against the Siamese of Ayutthaya. The cost of these wars on Lanna was heavy. Eventually in a weakened state Chiang Mai fell to the Burmese under the leadership of King Bayinnaung in 1558.

It was 200 years before the Burmese were ousted from Chiang Mai. The northern Thais united with the Siamese, led by King Taksin and successfully fought the Burmese, forcing them to leave Chiang Mai. This had more significance for King Taksin as he was trying to protect his kingdom. Having been defeated by the Burmese at Ayutthaya, he realised that without Chiang Mai it would be very difficult for the Burmese to attack Siam.

After the Burmese fled Chiang Mai the city was effectively ruined and so was uninhabited. It was Chao Kawila, appointed viceroy of Chiang Mai by King Taksin, who rebuilt the city in 1796. The walls around the moat that stand today were built at this time and still can be viewed and enjoyed on walking tours of the city.

The present day population of Chiang Mai can be traced back to a Tai ethnicity. This is because the new city was compiled of Shan, Tai Khoen, Tai Yong and some local people. What you will now find in Chiang Mai is a mixture of these ethnicities which through integration and assimilation became known as Khon Mueng. They have their own distinct language which is a dialect of central Thai.

The beginning of the end for Chiang Mai as an independent capital in Lanna was to come with more economic cooperation with Siam. This led to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) overseeing all administrative duties in Chiang Mai. The interest being shown by foreign powers such as Britain in the teak forests was certainly a reason for Rama V to take control of Chiang Mai.

With tighter control on Chiang Mai by Rama V the British began logging on a massive scale. At first this was without problems. However due to a lack of regulations concerning concessions and taxation on logging teak, resentment and fiction began to occur especially in the border area. British loggers began to be killed and so the British turned to Siam for assistance in security.

This had the effect of placing Chiang Mai under the total control of Bangkok. The 1873 Treaty of Chiang Mai took care of this. Siam feared that the British, who were already in control of Burma would, for economic interests, come across the border and take control in Lanna. This would have serious political problems for Siam and so had to be avoided. Thailand history and culture

With the building of a railway to Chiang Mai and the introduction of a telegraph service trade links grew stronger between Chiang Mai and Bangkok. With the revolution of 1932 the absolute monarchy was finished and so Chiang Mai became a province of Siam. In 1949 Thailand replaced Siam as the official name.

Much hardship and suffering occurred during WWII in Chiang Mai under Japanese occupation. The mountainous terrain and scenery that draws so many visitors to the region also had a sinister side. The Japanese, using forced labourers, built roads through this incredibly tough landscape. These are the same roads that are in use today, and are now an essential and necessary aspect to enjoying the scenery of northern Thailand.

Chiang Mai has seen an annual increase in tourist numbers since the boom in the 1990’s. Also an ever increasing ex-pat community is developing. Both tourist and ex-pat are endeavouring to gain a true Lanna experience by living in historical Chiang Mai.
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Guide to Bangkok nightlife

by Andy Burrows
First time in Bangkok? Fret not. Here's a guide on how to spend the most of your night in this glittering city. Nightlife in Bangkok is so electrifying you will want to come back again for more.

Finding a trendy place to dine and wine in style is a great way to start your evening. Bangkok is home to a couple of rooftop venues where you can enjoy sweeping views of the city and the exquisite Chao Phraya River. The most famous, open-air spots include the Sky Bar (Sirocco) on Silom road (tel: +66 2 624 9999) on the 64th floor of State Tower and Moon Bar (Vertigo) (tel: +66 2 679 1200) on the 61st floor of Banyan Tree Hotel, on Sathorn road.

But if it starts pouring down, stay safe and dry at Three Sixty at Millennium Hilton Hotel (tel: +66 2 442 2000), the newest rooftop venue in Bangkok offering breathtaking 360° views. Three Sixty is roofed so you don't need good weather to have a good time.

Get yourself a map of Bangkok before planning the rest of your evening. Famous among party-goers of all ages and tastes, Sukhumvit is the longest and perhaps the hippest road in Bangkok, boasting a variety of nightlife venues. It is on this happening road where you can find Nana Plaza on Sukhumvit soi 4 and soi Cowboy, off Sukhumvit soi 23, the notorious zones of dodgy go-go bars.

Hanky-panky business aside, Sukhumvit is also home to many hip clubs, pubs and bars including the white and stylish Bed Supperclub on Sukhumvit soi 11 (tel: +66 2 651 3557) and Q Bar (+66 2 252-3274), also on the same soi, well-known among tourists, expats and locals, offering a full range of Cuba cigars.

While most of you might only want to mingle with the same crowds you have back home, but some want to try something different. Visiting local venues is an eye-opening experience. You can see for yourself what locals do when they go out. Try Escudo on Sukhumvit soi 55 (tel: +66 2 381 0866) and Escobar on Sukhumvit s63 (tel: +66 2 711 6565) and observe the world of Ferrari boys and daddy's little girls flashing platinum cards.

At the centre of any Bangkok map, and another area worth exploring is the heart of Bangkok, home to two popular areas, Siam and Silom. Check out CM2 (tel: +66 2 209 8888) at Novotel Siam Square where live band plays on the main area and hip-hop tunes buzz out from the Boom Room. This place is usually secretly swarmed by 'business' girls and their customers. If you don't plan to have anything to do with them, it's still fun to watch them working their magic.

More discreet is Silom soi 2 (Patpong) where various go-go bars dot the area. Watch out for the guys who usually shove a menu of shows at you in an aggressive manner.

Located in the old town, Khao San road always makes it to the top of the list of tourist-friendly favourites, and it's the centre of the Bangkok map for all backpackers. This area is packed with a dizzying array of clubs, pubs and bars. Grab a can of Singha beer and watch the world you are familiar with go by at one of many bars including Buddy Beer (tel: +66 2 629 4477) equipped with pool tables, Brick Bar (tel: +66 2 629 4477), or Silk Bar (tel: +66 2 281 9981).

If you aren't exactly into crazy clubbing and drinking until dawn, try Bangkok's many cultural treats that take place in the evening. Siam Niramit is unarguably the most famous among tourists, featuring a refined 80-miniute show about Thailand (or Siam). The awesome performance combines fascinating stories of Siam in the past, Thai spiritual beliefs and some practical Buddhist lessons with splendid visual and sound effects as well as spectacular costumes. The show is on everyday at 20:00 at the Ratchadda Grand Theatre (tel: +66 2 649 9222).

No matter what you are looking for to have a good time in Bangkok when the sun goes down, you will find it. If one night in Bangkok doesn't make the world your oyster, nothing else probably would. Remember, you can easily get lost and Bangkok is a big place so study your map carefully before an evening out.


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The Loy Krathong Festival - lighting up the Chao Phraya

by Eric Lim
The Loy Krathong Festival is one of the most colorful Thai festivals celebrated nationwide. Processions of beautiful girls dressed in traditional costumes carry floral floats that are floated on rivers and lakes. Each province has its special features in celebrating this annual Festival of Lights.

In Bangkok the highlight of the Loy Krathong Festival was a procession of boats from the Royal Thai Navy decorated with various designs and lights presented by various organizations held nightly from 13 - 16 November 2005.

It was a spectacular floating kaleidoscope flickering in the night along the Chao Phraya River from the Taksin Bridge to King Rama VIII Bridge against a backdrop of historical monuments lighted up for the occasion.

The Loy Krathong tradition

What's the significance of this festival beyond the color and pageantry?

The Loy Krathong Festival is a 13th century Sukhothai tradition of Brahmin origin, adapted to Buddhism, to give thanks to the Goddess of water and to seek forgiveness for past misdeeds.

This tradition is particularly strong in agricultural societies where the river gives life and sustenance in a close bond between Man and Nature. To the millions of farmers dependant on its source of water, the Chao Phraya is the river of life.

Held on the 15th night of the new moon in the twelve-month of the Thai calendar, the Loy Krathong Festival usually falls in the third or fourth week of November.

The Loy Krathong ritual

In the ritual, the person kneels by the water, says a prayer, makes a wish, asks for forgiveness and floats (loy) off the lighted krathong. Courting couples float off a krathong together under the full moon and watch as the krathong drifts towards the fulfillment of their dreams.

Making the krathong

Made entirely from natural material, traditional krathongs consist of a small slice of banana trunk to serve as the float, which is decorated with banana leaves, multi-colored orchids, lotus and bright yellow marigolds, a candle and three joss sticks.

In the old days, sharpened wooden slivers are used to pin the leaves. Nails and staples have replaced these today. It's customary to leave some coins and a strain of your hair in the krathong to bring in good fortune and carry away the bad.

Merrymaking on Loy Krathong night

Locally the Loy Krathong Festival is celebrated at various locations near the Chao Phraya River, which are buzzing with activity, heightening as one reaches the riverbanks.

Roads to the piers are filled with vendors and buskers as crowds patiently inch their way to the banks packed with people of all ages. Many queue for boats to float their krathongs mid-stream. The celebration goes on for the whole night with more people arriving in the early hours.

Protecting the environment

Cleaning up the rivers and canals after the festival is a formidable task. On 17 November 2005, the morning after, it took 4,000 cleaners to retrieve 1.2 million krathongs in Bangkok alone!

The City administration discourages the use of Styrofoam, as these are non-biodegradable. The more enterprising have baked bread in the shape of krathongs that are consumed by fishe

Towards a better tomorrow

As fireworks burst overhead lighting the dark Bangkok skies, another Loy Krathong Festival comes to an end. Meanwhile the krathongs drift along the Chao Phraya carrying with them the hopes of thousands wishing for a better tomorrow.

If you're in Bangkok during the next Loy Krathong Festival, view the festivities at any of the Chao Phraya river piers. For a panoramic view, stay at one of the riverside hotels or take a river cruise by night.

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